As Of: 05 Sep 03
Miles Down:  2,860
Miles To Go: 0,000
St Augustine, FL to San Diego, CA

Day Fifteen:

This was an early-start day! Larry wanted to get out of Conroe and the associated traffic as soon as possible on Sunday morning. By about 8:00 he was already in Magnolia, which seemed farther from Conroe than he remembered. It's a nice little city now, he reports, with a Walgreens and a Jack In The Box, etc. And, again, he was able to find the house on Bear Branch which he purchased and lived in after moving there from Conroe. He was glad to see that it was still well maintained and in good shape.

By noon he was about 18 miles west of Hempstead where he'd stopped for a cheeseburger, fries and lemonade. He doesn't usually drink lemonade but he said he seemed to have a desire for it today.

By this point he'd ridden 65 miles on 1488, Magnolia Parkway, a good bike route: newly paved with a nice shoulder! He figured at that point he'd been averaging about 16 mph. He had encountered some low rolling hills, and then the ride had flattened out. Larry really enjoyed this stretch of the ride, being out in the country, and feels that this is his best day yet. It was flat a while and hilly a while toward the end of the ride; and he saw lots of mesquite trees, which he hadn't seen in years. He also saw ten or 15 cyclists today -- he hasn't run into many at all on this trip. Three were from Houston. Someone had driven them to San Antonio, and they were riding their way back home to Houston. He was glad to speak with them as they warned him of some roads to avoid.

So the total mileage on Sunday, according to the GPS (since the speedometer isn't working, thanks to the buzzard), was 112 miles. He's spending this night at the Bastrop Inn, which he's pleased to report has a washer and drier!

Thanks again for your encouraging e-mails and for keeping both of us in your prayers!

Day Sixteen:

Larry left Bastrop shortly after 5:00 a.m. on Monday morning and was in Bateman by 8:30. The "Southern Tier" suggested taking 20 which turned out to be a terrible road for cycling. There was lots of traffic and no shoulder to ride on. He got stuck at a plant somewhere along the way for about a half hour while waiting for the cars to come out of the parking lot -- night shift was over! That's one of the problems with leaving so early in the morning, I guess.

He heard a report of a cougar seen in El Paso. He's hopeful that it will be caught or will have gone back into the wilderness before he gets there!

Monday was like a roller coaster ride, according to Larry. It took him nearly a half hour to get up one hill. He'd stop every 1/4 mile or so to rest. He met another cyclist along the way who told him there was no longer a motel in Blanco. Darn! So he decided to go on to Comfort, TX. Unfortunately, the motel in Comfort was just TOO NASTY. So Larry's only choice was to ride on to Kerrville where he stayed in the nicest motel yet, another Best Western. He was so happy to see the place he really didn't "give a damn" what it cost at that point!

He'd ridden 114 miles and it had taken him about 12 hours to do it; he was a very tired fellow. This was probably his roughest day, although he didn't think it was as hot as Sunday, maybe because part of the time he was between cedar trees.

The positives about day sixteen were that he saw lots of deer, about 18 around one water hole; and he rode through 20 miles of winding roads through cotton fields. It reminded him of the rice/crawfish fields we rode through in Louisiana in April. He thought the terrain seemed odd once he was in Kerrville; he hadn't ridden through mountains to get there, yet from the motel it looked as though they were surrounded by some mountains. Maybe he was just dillusional by then. He also reported that he saw a cyclist who had only one panier on his bike and figured he must not be going very far!

Day Seventeen:

After a "free" breakfast (not continental) at the BW (except for the OJ), Larry was off again. At a rest stop on 39 he said he could see for 30 miles in each direction. He'd seen several Axis Deer this day, which he told me had been brought to TX from somewhere else. They're spotted and have huge antlers. It was hilly again on Tuesday, but he said the air was so clean it was almost like breathing pure oxygen. He saw lots of cactus, cedar and mesquite trees too. Both 39 and 83 cross several rivers or streams, so Larry was able to stop every few miles, take his shoes off and put his feet in the icy water. He eventually just left his socks off so he could have quick access to the water. He had to watch out for sharp little rocks in the river beds though. There was a sign along one of the roads that said, "If you can't get through here, you must go back seven miles." He was sure glad the road wasn't flooded!

By 1:00 he was almost to Leakey, TX; and today was another good day! In one spot he saw some wild turkeys, so he turned around and rode back up a hill to take some pictures. By the time he got back up the hill and got the camera out, they were taking off. So he's not so sure how well the turkeys are going to show up in the picture.

This night he's staying at Laurel Mountain Cabins, about 1/4 mile off the main road; and he ate lunch/dinner at Hunters Restaurant. Sounds very woodsy, doesn't it? He has a little one-room cabin with a tiny bathroom -- the sink's in the bedroom. There's no phone, but there's a TV that gets about four channels, and it has A/C. The rafter are exposed and outside under the shade trees there's a barbeque grill and a picnic table. (Wish I were there!) When he plugged in his cell phone to charge it, he thinks he blew a fuse because now his bedside lamp isn't working. He was going to check on that.

He believes he's only about 39 miles from Uvalde so he may get to Bracketville tomorrow, or Del Rio if he's feeling really strong. Since he did only about 55 miles today, you never know!

Day Eighteen:

The first 10 to 15 miles on Wednesday were rough on Highway 83. But by 11:00 my time Larry was just ten or 12 miles north of Uvalde, TX; and he reported that it was cloudy and windy. (Later in the day it was "hot as hell" climbing to about 97 official degrees.) Larry said 83 was a good route, but it was difficult getting through Uvalde as both sides of the road were curbed. Once he got to 90 it was four lanes and later two lanes with a wide shoulder. That's always a relief!

He enjoyed riding through cotton and corn fields and said he counted over 100 turkeys, 23 deer, two eagles and several jackrabbits. He couldn't believe the size of the jackrabbits; 15 to 20 pounds each, he imagines; the size of small dogs. He also could hear the coyotes in the hills and saw some dead along the road.

By 4:30 he was past 1572, and at 6:00 he pulled into Bracketville where the only motel was an old Army fort built in the 1800s: Ft. Clark Springs. It's now a motel and a recreation and convention center with no telephones in the rooms. (Thanks be to God for cell phones!) The pool is 80' x 300' and is fed by and sits over the springs. In the evening the sound of the locusts was so loud he said it sounded like radio static. The warm wind from the southeast felt like the heater on low blowing against his face.

Sometime during the day he had observed some Mexicans climbing over the fence into the U.S., and the Border Patrol with their blue lights on. The Border Patrol is everywhere in this neck of the woods, with check stations and road blocks set up!

Day eighteen was a pretty good day but a long one. He rode about 82 miles. For some reason Larry's left eye was bothering him, so he stopped at a drug store and got something the pharmacist suggested which seemed to help.

Day Nineteen:

On Thursday Larry left just after daylight and rode a little while before he called me. Darrin called him just as we had hung up. Going over the Rio Grande in Del Rio was interesting, traveling on a newly paved road in the middle of an old railroad trussle. By 2:30 Larry was 12 miles from Comstock, TX. It was hot and windy, but the humidity was only 30% which really allows the sweat to evaporate and the rain to disappear quickly! He could tell that the elevation was rising a little bit at a time now. Larry thinks that God slowed down when he was making this part of the world -- it's not very interesting.

At one point he was stopped by a Border Patrol Officer who warned him not to stop for anyone who might approach him -- except for Border Patrol Officers, I guess. Evidently there have been some cyclists who have "lost" their bicycles. (I'm not sure anyone could figure out quickly how to ride that 'bent anyway!) The Officer told Larry that lots of folks sneak across the border into the U.S., work for a few months, and then sneak back across, sometimes traveling 100 miles on foot each way. There are now sensors in the desert which send reports of movement to the BP Offices. And sometimes the officers will find the body of someone who hasn't made it because of the heat and the lack of water or whatever. Very sad. Larry sensed that the BP Officer was compassionate but nevertheless doing his job.

By 4:30 Larry was at the Comstock Inn -- no phone but satellite TV with 140 channels. We have our priorities! Dinner was at the Owl's Nest because that was the only place to eat in Comstock. Interestingly enough, the Border Patrol Office was in the same parking lot as the Inn. Larry was surprised that it had taken him the same amount of time to get from Del Rio to Comstock as it did from Bracketville to Del Rio. At any rate, he figured that he rode around 66 miles this day. According to my calculations, that makes a total of 1486 miles so far -- not yet half way.

At 9:30 Larry went out on a hill behind the motel and watched the sunset. It was red as he watched it go behind a mountain and disappear.

I appreciate you keeping both of us in your prayers. I'm ready for him to come home, and I think he may be just about ready as well. But he continues on . . .

Day Twenty:

When Larry called me at 9:00 a.m. my time he was nearly to Langtry, sitting at a picnic table adjacent to the Rio Grande looking across at Mexico. The first mile or two of today's ride he could hear the coyotes in the distance. Even though it seemed cool this morning, he had already consumed three of the six water bottles he was carrying. He was about 10 miles from Dryden by 11:30 and had encountered gradual uphills and gradual downhills. The elevation in Comstock was 1400', 1800' in Langtry, and now was 2200' before Sanderson where it rises to 3000' then 3300'. He had to stop twice going up one hill and reports that he climbs for 10 minutes at six to eight miles per hour and then coasts downhill at 30 miles per hour for about two minutes. Too bad it's not the other way around. However, the rear brake pads are just about shot. He plans on switching one of the good front pads to the rear which he expects will get him to El Paso where he can hopefully buy new.

By the time he gets to Alpine the elevation will be 5000', and it gets to 8000' in Fort Davis. There's very little vegetation in this part of the world; the brush isn't even head high. It's really open country, and he can see from horizon to horizon. And though he's seen many a deer stand, he hasn't seen a single deer.

He stopped at the Judge Roy Bean Museum in Langtry and learned about Roy's "love" for English actress Lilly Langtry. I guess one theory is that the town of Langtry was named by the Judge in her honor. There's an old windmill at the museum. The courtroom there was also a bar . . . so that Judge Bean could serve drinks and justice at the same time. (Doesn't work that way anymore, at least in my experience!)

Larry met with the folks that run the place. They've been there 34 years. He asked the lady who runs the little store what they do for entertainment. She explained that there are 12 residents in Langtry, and once in a while they'll all get together and do something or drive to Del Rio to see a movie. Larry bought some fig bars and Gatorade at the store. Needless to say, I suppose, there aren't many houses in this area, just abandoned deer lease shelters and old abandoned gas stations.

Larry got into Sanderson a little after 3:00 and had a burger and fries for lunch. He says he encountered a few bad hills coming into this nice town. He found the library, which has four computers, so for the first time he was able to e-mail both Darrin and me and look at the Web site. He was impressed! Larry read somewhere that Sanderson was the first community in Big Ben country to have internet service -- 1995.

He's at the Desert Inn in Sanderson tonight, where again there's no phone. But it has AC and TV! He did about 90 miles today and thinks that leaving really early in the morning is the way to go! The elevation in Sanderson is reportedly 4000', and the surrounding area is mostly sheep ranches. He can't imagine anything but sheep would want to live there anyway. There are some schools in town, a couple churches, two or three convenience stores and a restaurant. For your information, Sanderson is the Cactus Capital of Texas. And Larry says there are, in fact, lots of cacti here. He picked up a copy of the Terrell County News Leader, which is four pages of mostly advertisements. Here's the news: Next weekend the town of Marfa will hold the Marfa Lights Festival with dancing in the streets, a watermelon seed-spitting contest, country and Cajun music at the courthouse, 15 to 20 booths selling Marfa memorabilia, a knife and gun show, and a parade that will be bigger and louder than ever. They're also going to have experts there who will try to explain the cause of the Marfa Lights. The Sanderson Eagles will play football tonight on the football field. (Good idea, huh?) They're rated #1 in the country for six-man teams. (I'm guessing there are probably two six-man teams in the country!)

The average home price in Terrell County is $26,000. Ranch sizes in the area have decreased over the years. Most ranches used to be between 50,000 and 100,000 acres. Because of inheritance most ranches are now only 25,000 acres. The deadline for getting your six-dollar swine ear tags is November 7th. (Happy 75th Birthday, Dad!)

So far I figure Larry's ridden 1576 miles. So that means that he's averaged 82.95 miles per day in the 19 days that he's ridden, which is GREAT. Makes me tired just writing about it!

Day Twenty-One:

It was 68 degrees when Larry left Sanderson at 4:10 a.m. his time on Saturday morning. He had a good tail wind and the ride was flat, so he scooted right along. He actually had one downhill that was three miles long! He did get wet a couple times but only stopped for rain, to eat and to rest, averaging around 15 miles per hour. He had lunch, a cheeseburger from Dairy Queen, with his Gatorade.

About 20 miles west of Sanderson the terrain changed. He was riding through big, open farms with mountains off in the distance. He saw some deer; one dead in the road. And he saw 15 or 20 Prong Horns (Antelope). They have white butts which Larry said really shine when they run! And somewhere along the way he saw several ultralights. The Southern Pacific Railroad runs adjacent to Highway 90 going through Sanderson Canyon, and Larry saw one train that he says must have been two miles long. Marathon wasn't interesting and the motel didn't seem inviting, so Larry traveled on. Alpine, which folks refer to as the Texas Alps, was a nice town which reminded him a bit of Mt. Dora.

After riding ten hours and 110 miles, he made it all the way to Marfa. And since the only place to eat there was Dairy Queen . . . twice in one day . . . he had popcorn chicken, potatoes, root beet and an ice cream cone. After the rain stopped late in the evening, and it was really dark out, he rode back east to observe the Marfa Lights. He'd heard about this phenomenon for years and was glad to finally get to see them. He called while he was out there and described the sight for me.

Larry had, of course, picked up the local eight-page paper, The Big Ben Sentinel. Residents are furious about the property tax increase. Yearly taxes on a 50,000-dollar home will now go up to . . . $84 per year. Imagine! Property taxes for those 65 and older have been frozen, however. And an officer shot a mountain lion on the front porch of someone's home in El Paso.